Life for many in the Mekong region has undergone a profound transition in the space of a generation, even if the politics havn't always come along for the ride.
In Cambodia, the veneer of democracy wears thin. Elections come around every five years, but the Cambodians Peoples Party continues to control the military, the police, the civil service and the judiciary. There is no separation between party and state and woe betide those who cross the line and criticise the head honcho's.
Corruption remains a cancer throughout the Mekong region. Despite the best intentions of a small minority, the worst intentions of many a minister and their underlings continues to cost the Mekong countries hundreds of millions of dollars in lost assets. China and Vietnam have started tackling corruption head on with high-profile executions and prison sentences. Senior party officials have been put away, but cronyism and nepotism remain alive and well in an undemocratic system.
In Cambodia, corruption has been elevated to an art form. Democracy has been supplanted by kleptocracy, governance by theft, and millions of dollars have been syphoned away in recent years. National service is dead, it's all about self service and Cambodian politicians are as self serving as they come. An anticorruption law has been on the table for more than a decade, but international donors seem to suffer from collective amnesia every time it comes to signing the cheque books.
Despite all this, I found Cambodia to be enchanting, vibrant, exciting, frightening, sad, comical, humbling and above all the friendliest place I have ever had the pleasure to visit.
How can I forget the wonderful hospitality I experienced in Kandal and Prey Veng provinces with Sreyvon and her family; the moto man who pushed me across a flooded road, three foot deep in water, on the back of his motorbike; the kids in the market mopping my brow; buying sandwiches for the street boys on Street 51; playing football with a group of young schoolboys; the smiling, happy faces of people with little or nothing; the enjoyment of seeing people enjoy every last scrap of food on their plate; the horror of S-21 prison; the chilling stories of so many people whose lives were profoundly affected by Pol Pot; the constant hassling of the moto men who never knew where they going!; the tuk-tuk men; the beggars; the traffic; the fruit shakes; the Angkor beer; the filthy streets by day, cleaned every night; the roadside workshops; the rain; the heat; Mr. Phannak and his brother at the Fancy Guesthouse; Chhom(Mr. Fixit); the snails, snakes, spiders and dogs!; Norm and Barbara at the Little Garden Restaurant; Kampot sunsets and expats, Christian, Steve and Ezra; the crabs on the bus; karaoke taxi ride; The Roomchang Dental clinic; The Dara Reang Sey hotel and its wonderful staff; The Hollywood night and moto men; the Killing Fields; the Mekong at dawn; the mosquitos; Bob, Ravi, Atu, Da, Sreycow, Lina, Chea, and the staff at Howie's bar; the Golden Vine; the Zeppelin Cafe; the Angkor International hotel; the night market; the Cambodian barbecue cafes; Independence day and last but certainly not least one very special lady and her truly wonderful family.
Cambodia got under my skin and I will be back. I hope you have all enjoyed sharing this with me. Sometimes it has not been easy to get internet access but on the whole I have managed without too much difficulty. My only regret is that some or all of you could not be here to witness some of the incredible things I have seen.
Juab khnia thngay kraoy(see you soon)
Mekongpete!
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